In the Kitchen

What's New at Paulding & Company

November 2009

In the garden and the market

It’s the confusing season. We jump from warm, spring-like days to cold and rainy and back again, knowing that at any second, it could turn cold for real. We cling to the hope (or at least I do) that a trip to the farmer’s market will yield a few more sweet eggplants, another handful of tender summer greens, a basket of late raspberries. At the same time the winter squash and sturdy greens are showing up, the persimmons and pomegranates, apples and pears and quinces have replaced summer peaches and fall pluots; the late tomatoes might, or might not, be sweet. My fig tree, miracle tree this year, produced right up through the first of November—next week we will prune it heavily, taking it down from 30 feet to 15 in height, making it more pickable next year. I’ve planted some fall peas and some fava beans, and continue to poke scallion bottoms into the soil whenever I’ve trimmed a few away—did you know you could just plant the root end, if you leave 1/3 inch of the flesh, and it will grow another scallion in no time at all? I poke them in everywhere, and rarely buy scallions anymore, unless I need a lot at once. Want some additional gardening inspiration? Do check out our favorite Italian cooking teacher, Rosetta Costantino’s garden blog.

The other thing I’ve grown (and used to shy away from) is mint. It does take over, but I’m hoping it will overwhelm the impossible-to-halt horseradish in my garden, something I once planted a one-inch piece of, that I’ve tried to eradicate, even to the point of sifting the soil, only to have it spread even farther the next year. We shall see which plan wins that battle! Although I like horseradish, I don’t use it much compared to the mint, which is a key ingredient in our “house iced tea.” Clients frequently suggest that we bottle it. It’s simple—fresh spearmint, really good Oolong tea from our friends at Teance Teas, and a very small amount of agave syrup, not enough to make it sweet, but just enough so you don’t notice that it’s not. Maybe 1/4 cup in 3 gallons of tea, our usual batch. Why agave you ask? Because it’s delicious, and it’s also is low on the glycemic index, so even our diabetic customers can drink the tea. So, if you want to make your own, go ahead!

Events In the Kitchen

We have had so much going on in the kitchen—last month we worked hard and played hard. A few highlights include creating a great menu with some able student assistance for the very delicious Chamber of Commerce mixer we hosted. We also played with our new friends at Murder on the Menu for a murder-mystery cooking event, the mystery and cooking involving a nice group of folks who bussed down from Napa. To end the month on a delicious note, we hosted another big group of clients who came to work with our favorite chocolate advocate, Executive Chef Derek Poirier of Valrhona Chocolates. We made a 9-dish, chocolate from appetizer to dessert menu together, including three yummy and very chocolaty desserts but also dishes with lamb, duck, pork, scallops and seared tuna. It’s something we’d love to do again, so if you’re interested get in touch! We start this month out with another of our favorite events, a wedding rehearsal dinner, where 55 members of a new extended family will meet, cook, and eat, getting to know one another at the same time.

Our Newest Service!

There are many party planners out there—but none, that I know of, who will help you plan your do-it-yourself party right down to the menu, recipes, shopping list and prep schedule. Paulding & Company is now available to consult with you, and plan your party so thoroughly that all you have to do is follow the script to make a delicious menu for your guests (or with them, as the case may be). We know that many people can’t afford full-on catering this year, but are a bit...insecure about planning a dinner party on their own. So we figured this might help—you’ll end up with the confidence to follow the plan and become the star of your own event, at a fraction of the cost of catering.

What’s Coming Next

Tracy’s working on summer camp for next year, so she can announce it in January. If you have pre-teens or teens who like to cook, our summer camp is awesome—check out the pictures from last summer, at www.cookprograms.com if you haven’t done so yet! Tracy’s also working with some kid’s birthday party events, a new feature for us. We may not be the least expensive party you can host, but we will make it the most delicious and fun, and do the clean-up, too!

Parties, Classes, and Gifts

There are only a few weeks in December to have parties, and we’re already completely booked through the first weekend. We have some space left though, so think of us for that fun holiday party, either a cooking event or simply a catered party, either at our place, or another of your choosing. We’re not offering any public classes for the rest of the year, because we’ll just be too busy with corporate events, private parties, and even a December wedding. Rosetta has sold out her 2009 classes as well, but you can check her schedule for next year, in case you want to give a gift certificate as a stocking stuffer. We will also make one up for the next (no date yet, but sometime in January or early February) knife sharpening class, if you’d like.

Recipe of the Month

So much good food, it’s hard to choose one recipe. Last month, I published my new favorite swordfish recipe, with the fish cooked in leaves from my fig tree—and I want to give you a thought or two on updating it for the rest of the year: first, try it using jarred grape leaves (no blanching required), and substituting grapes in the salsa. You can roast grapes and they get caramelized and totally yummy. If you want, sprinkle a little sherry vinegar over them before you pop in the oven, and let them roast until they are swollen and some have collapsed. Second, try the salsa with a little addition of some black oil-cured olives, just a few for a salty contrast. We started making this addition, and love it!

Another recipe we’ve been making frequently with our guests, is pistachio torte. Find the almond cake recipe in the archives, and simply substitute an equal amount of pistachios for the almonds. You’ll get a completely different but equally yummy treat. We serve it with some poached fruit, pear, quince etc., or with diced persimmons and whipped cream mixed with some strained Hichaya persimmon pulp.

I wanted to give the lowly beet a boost this time around—its sweet and earthy flavor pairs well with the slightly bitter crunch of endive, and makes an easy but unusual salad, very welcome in winter. Here, we’ve added some walnuts and citrus, and a dressing with a buttermilk base. You can also deconstruct this dish, and serve a small amount of the salad inside each leaf as an hors d’oeuvre.

Beet Salad with Endive, Walnuts and Citrus